Why Your Faucet Drips — Causes & How to Fix It
Why does my faucet keep dripping and how do I stop it?
A dripping faucet almost always means a worn internal part — a washer, O-ring, or cartridge — has hardened or torn and no longer seals. Most fixes are a cheap, 30-to-60-minute DIY repair once you shut off the water.
ℹ️ Reference only: For general reference only. This guide does not guarantee any result — every home is different. Verify against your local building codes and a licensed professional before acting, especially for electrical, gas, plumbing, structural, or roof work.
Common causes
- Worn-out cartridge (most common on single-handle and many modern faucets). The plastic/brass cartridge that controls flow wears or cracks and stops sealing. (most common) Quick check: Single lever or modern two-handle faucet that drips no matter how hard you turn it off — points to the cartridge.
- Worn rubber washer or seat (classic compression faucet, common in older homes). The washer gets compressed and brittle from being pressed against the valve seat. (common) Quick check: Two separate hot/cold handles you have to twist hard to shut. If the spout drips with only one handle's water on, that side's washer is the likely culprit — but check both, since either can feed the same spout.
- Damaged or hardened O-rings. Small rubber rings dry out and crack, causing drips at the spout or leaks around the handle base. (common) Quick check: Water seeping around the handle or base when you turn it on, in addition to or instead of a spout drip.
- Corroded or pitted valve seat. Mineral buildup and corrosion roughen the seat so a new washer still won't seal. (less common) Quick check: You replaced the washer and it still drips — the seat itself is rough. Probe gently inside with a fingertip; it feels gritty or pitted.
- High water pressure or water hammer. Pressure above ~80 psi can stress seals and cause intermittent dripping, especially at night when overall demand is low. (less common) Quick check: Multiple faucets drip, or drips come and go. Test with a ~$10-15 hose-bib pressure gauge — a steady reading over 80 psi points here.
- Worn rubber seals/springs in a ball-type faucet (older single-handle Delta-style). The seats and springs under the ball wear out. (less common) Quick check: Single-handle faucet with a rounded ball cap under the lever that drips from the spout.
How to fix it
- Shut off the water first. Turn the two shutoff valves under the sink clockwise until snug; if there are none or they don't fully stop the flow, shut off the main. Open the faucet to drain pressure and plug the drain so small parts can't fall in.
- Identify your faucet type: compression (two handles you twist hard), cartridge (single or two-handle that turns smoothly ~90 degrees), ball (single handle with a rounded cap), or ceramic-disc. The repair part depends on this.
- Pop off the decorative handle cap with a flathead, remove the handle screw, and pull the handle. Take a photo at each step so reassembly is easy.
- For a compression faucet: unscrew the packing nut, lift out the stem, and replace the rubber washer at the bottom and the O-ring on the stem. Bring the old parts to the hardware store to match size.
- For a cartridge faucet: remove the retaining clip/nut, pull the cartridge straight out with pliers (or a brand-specific puller), and drop in an identical replacement. Match the brand and model — Moen, Delta, Kohler, etc. each differ.
- For a ball or ceramic-disc faucet: buy the manufacturer's repair kit (springs/seats for ball, or seals for disc) and swap the worn parts following the kit diagram.
- While it's apart, clean mineral buildup off metal parts with white vinegar and a rag. Lightly coat new O-rings with plumber's silicone grease — never petroleum jelly, which degrades rubber.
- If a new washer still drips, the valve seat is bad. Smooth it with an inexpensive seat-dressing/reseating tool, or replace the seat if it unscrews.
- Reassemble in reverse, turn the water back on slowly, and run the faucet to check for drips and base leaks. Snug any connection that weeps; don't overtighten.
- If the whole faucet is corroded or parts are discontinued, replacing the entire faucet (fixture often $40-$200) is usually smarter than chasing repairs.
DIY or call a pro?
A standard washer, O-ring, or cartridge swap is well within reach for a careful homeowner with basic tools — this is one of the most beginner-friendly plumbing repairs. Call a licensed plumber if: the shutoff valves are seized or leak when you touch them, the faucet body or valve seat is badly corroded, you have to repair from inside the wall (tub/shower valves behind tile), you suspect a whole-house pressure problem needing a pressure-reducing valve, or you simply can't get a clean seal after replacing parts.
Tools & parts
- Adjustable wrench
- Slip-joint or channel-lock pliers
- Flathead and Phillips screwdrivers
- Allen/hex key set (for set screws)
- Replacement washers, O-rings, or brand-matched cartridge/repair kit
- Plumber's silicone grease
- White vinegar for descaling
- Rag and small bowl for parts
- Cartridge puller and seat-dressing tool (only if needed)
Keep a record of every fix you make — what broke, what it cost, how you solved it.
Track your home's fixes in Home Story →Based on: Manufacturer repair guidance (Moen, Delta, Kohler cartridge/washer documentation); Reputable DIY references (This Old House, Family Handyman, Bob Vila in spirit); Plumbing-code water-pressure norm (≤80 psi, per IPC/UPC)
General home-maintenance guidance, not professional plumbing advice. Faucet designs and local codes vary; when in doubt or when shutoffs/valve bodies are compromised, consult a licensed plumber.